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Hoi An, Vietnam

31 Thursday Mar 2011

Posted by Jennifer Ryan in Travel

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clothes, custom made clothes, Hoi Ann, Hoi Ann Pacific Hotel, Tailors, Travel, Vietnam, Yaly Couture

In order to get to Hoi An, you have to fly into Da Nang. We arrived about 9:30am to a very small airport and immediately were outside looking for a cab. Now knowing the hassles with meter taxis we insisted on a flat rate and ended up catching a ride with a dude from the states. Really nice guy who was travelling post divorce. He had been to Vietnam some 15 years earlier and was amazed at how it had all changed. He was a very knowledgeable guy. Told us all sorts of facts about Vietnam. But maybe a little too chatty for a 30 min drive!

Sue and I were shocked when we got to our hotel. It was a lot nicer than we had anticipated! We got all checked in and walked by a fabulous looking pool to get to our hotel room. Our room looked right on to the pool.

 

Town was only about a 5 minute walk so we hoofed it along the main street and into the main town area. What struck me about Hoi An was how cute it was. Lanterns strung up everywhere. Old buildings. The streets not super busy.

We were pretty hungry so we grabbed an early lunch by the river and planned our attack. The most amazing thing about Hoi An is the amount of tailors that work here. There are more than 500 tailors that work here so getting clothes made for you is the thing to do. We had a few places that had been recommended to us so we started there. At Yaly Couture. So we might have gone a little crazy here. Over the next hour, I worked with one person who helped me choose fabrics and designs for all the items I wanted. Once we had our list all finalized, we were measured.

We were told to come back the next day for our first fitting. That easy. And that quick of a turn around? Amazing!

We walked all around town that until later afternoon. Went to a few different tailors and ordered a few more things. It was starting to be hard to keep track of all of the different ones and what time we had to be at each the next day. Thank goodness for their business cards with maps on them!

So many great things to see in Hoi An. The Japanese Bridge as pictured below was built in the 1600’s as a way for the Japanese community to connect with the Chinese community.

Some other sites as we walked about town. Love all the colours!

We went back to the hotel for a little nap but decided on a swim instead! The pool was freezing but the weather was warm so we laid out for a bit after our dip and had an afternoon cocktail before getting ready for dinner.

We chose Mermaid Restaurant for our first nights meal. A little restaurant in the old town that had been recommended to us. We had to try the Hoi An specialty “White Rose” and was not disappointed. The food was incredible and probably the best meal we had to date at this point. If you ever go to Hoi An, you must try this restaurant!

As we were walking around the town at night we ran into Caley and Kyle, our friends from Halong Bay. Just happened to walk by them so we all went for a drink together. We exchanged email addresses so we could meet up with them in Nha Trang our next destination. It was an early night. I know, again. Seriously, we are not much parties when we travel. I would rather get up early and maximize the day than be hung over all day. But we did manage to party it up a couple times during our travels. The funniest part about staying out a little late that night was that by the time we got back to the hotel, the gate was up and there was noone to be found. It must have been 11pm or something. We did see a security guard inside but didn’t want to scream at him so we ended up climbing over the gate. When we asked the next day what we should do, they said we should call them and they would open it up. Um… with what phone?

The next day we took the hotel bikes out for a spin. Big mistake. They were so old and broken down that mine broke half way through the morning and I literally almost fell off the bike. A scary moment. We ditched the bikes then and just walked around. Ended up walking them back later. Some sites along our travels.

We then on a bit of a wild goose chase for this lunch place called Bale Well. We knew it was in an alley way between two streets but couldn’t find it. After we asked about 5 people and after walking for about 30 minutes we finally found it. This place was supposed to be the “safe” version of street food. It is a set meal and so they immediately started bringing over all the fixings. We had no idea how to eat any of it, so we asked. They showed us the various steps on how to put it all together. Best. Meal. Ever. Seriously amazing. But so much food. We stuffed ourselves! Not to be missed if you are ever in Hoi An.

The afternoon was spent in fittings for all our clothes. They were definitely shaping up. I couldn’t get over how well everything was made in such a short time. I found some more things that I wanted to get made as well so set up some fittings for the next day and booked a private tour to My Son. We took the crappy bikes back to the hotel and got some new ones. We had heard all about fresh beer so we had to go try it.

One glass of fresh beer was 4000 dong which is the equivalent of 20 cents. Totally ridiculous. And good beer too!  We sat on the patio and just enjoyed the view!

After a couple glasses of fresh beer on a patio overlooking the river, we made our way back to the old town for dinner. Our choice for that night was unoriginal. We went back to Mermaid Restaurant. It was too good to pass up another meal there. After dinner was a donut at a street vendor and walking around town. I loved Hoi An at night when all the lanterns were lit up!

As we were heading back to the hotel, the bikes broke down again. We tried to explain to the staff at the hotel the danger of letting people use these dangerous old bikes but they didn’t seem to understand us. So if you stay at Hoi An Pacific Hotel, I highly recommend you rent bikes elsewhere!

Our My Son adventure started at 8am the next morning when our private tour guide and driver picked us up. We drove about an hour outside of Hoi An to My Son. For those that don’t know, My Son is the site of Hindu ruins that worship the god Shiva. A lot of the ruins were destroyed by the US during the Vietnam war. Restoration has taken place however what is amazing is that the construction techniques used to create the temples in the first place, can’t be duplicated. You can tell what has been restored vs what is original and let me tell you the difference is incredible. The restored parts look like they were done by amateurs!

We were excited to get out and see the ruins so but we begun our tour with music and dance of some of the locals.

 Our guide was so informative and I was so grateful for having him. Walking around on our own without the histroy would not have been as impactful.

The location of My Son is in between two valleys and is so lush and green. It was wonderful walking around even though it was quite humid out.

We finished our tour and got back into the car to make our way back to Hoi An for lunch. As we were driving we saw this…

I am not sure if it was a good thing or bad thing that they were still alive. All squished up like that. Our guide said, she most likely was taking them to the market to sell. Poor piggies.

We ended up on the river for lunch which was all a part of the tour. A 4 course meal for $7. Love Vietnam for the cheap meals that you can get!

After lunch it was all about picking up our clothes. We were so impressed with the service we got at Yaly. You pay more for getting your clothes made but they are made so well and look fantastic. My overall haul in Vietnam: 4 pairs of pants, 1 skirt, 1 dress, 2 winter coats, 1 top for around $400. All tailor made to fit me. Of and I forgot one other thing I bought… One bag to fit everything I bought into. 🙂

Our last dinner in Hoi An was at this cute little family run restaurant. I can’t remember the name of it but the food was amazing (as usual). We strolled through the streets of Hoi An one last time before heading to our hotel for an early night. We had an early flight to Nha Trang the next morning.

Final thoughts on Hoi An. One word. Amazing.

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Hanoi, Vietnam Part 2

29 Tuesday Mar 2011

Posted by Jennifer Ryan in Travel

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Tags

EZ Rider, Hanoi, Lonely Planet, Serenity Hotel, SF Spa, Street food, Travel, Vietnam

We got back from Halong Bay late and had no idea if there was going to be room in the hotel we stayed at before. Thankfully they found room for us! Seriously, it you are in Hanoi, stay at the Serenity Hotel. You will not be disappointed!!

We left almost immediately to get some dinner. The hotel recommended a place close by called Highway 4. Amazing! Another Lonely Planet recommendation as well. They even have a line of  liquors that you can buy. I kind of wish I had now. Not a late night. After 8 hours round trip in a car, it was time for bed.

We had no real plans for the next morning. In the afternoon we had booked a massage and then it was dinner and apres dinner for Susan’s birthday. We came down for breakfast and our favourite guy who worked at the hotel said “Happy Birthday!”. I guess he had looked at Sue’s passport when we checked in! So we had our usual breakfasts and then we decided to just walk around and check out parts of Hanoi that we hadn’t seen yet. Before we knew it, it was time for lunch. We decided on the Green Tangerine. We were the only ones on the patio and ordered a feast! Holy moly did we eat a lot! After a few birthday/lunch cocktails it seemed appropriate to go find a place for another beer. We walked towards a location that was suggested in the LP but that place ended up being closed. So we backtracked to a place we had seen earlier. EZ Rider. I loved this place! And more so loved the manager. He was playing Backstreet Boys so I asked him about the band and if he liked them. He said he did and went on to tell us how much tickets were etc. He was totally cute! He told us that it was also a club and they have a backroom with a dance floor. We told him we might come back later to check it out! Most bars in Vietnam close at midnight but EZ Rider club stayed open late.

Off for our massage appointment. The funny thing about the place we booked at is that it was actually the place we wanted to go to a couple days prior but couldn’t find (SF Spa).  It was way better! Your typical spa with serene music and everyone quiet and respectful. Damn! We wasted money at that other place! The massage was fantastic. I fell asleep a couple times. We walked out of there totally out of it from being so relaxed. Until Susan says “Wow, I have never had my boobs massaged before”. Gutteral laughter ensued. Um what? I said to her that it must have been a birthday special because I certainly did not get that!

When we got into our hotel room, we saw red roses and a birthday cake. How nice is it that the hotel did that? Susan was so moved!

We decided on a place for dinner. It was packed when we got there but we managed to squeeze into the bar while we waited for our table. Good thing we got a table right away as we were getting no service at the bar. The food was fantastic. I know I sound like a broken record but I mean it when i have said that we didn’t eat a bad meal in Vietnam.

On to Le Pub! We settled in with some large beers and a jager bomb to get the night going!

After buying a t-shirt, taking a bunch of pictures and talking with the manager, we walked back to EZ Rider. The manager was still there! We chatted with him some more. He actually is brought into various bars to start them up. I talked with him about what he was doing advertising wise. Oh come on…. it is what I do!!! I always have the marketing hat on!

After some more drinks, we ventured to the back “club”. Such a vast different from the bar out front.

 We stayed maybe half hour or so but knew that one more drink would put us over the edge so we made our walk back to the hotel. Of course getting lost in the process. Thanks goodness for Jason and his iphone. GPS!! The crazy thing about our walk is that there is really no one on the streets. The busy Hanoi streets of the day are long gone and a quiet takes over. Kind of strange!

When we got back we dug into the cake! Did we ever. I would say when I woke up there was only 1/3rd of the cake left. Yummy!

Sue wasn’t feeling very well the next morning, so Jason and I wandered down to the Vietnam History Museum. They had some really cool artifacts. But really we just walked around Hanoi. Nothing on the agenda. Just taking it all in.

We met up with Susan later and went to the Water Puppets show! It was fun! Although I am not sure I would see it again but I do I think everyone should experience it!

Since this was our last night in Hanoi and our last night with Jason, we wanted to go out for a nice dinner. We chose Five Restaurant. We did it up right! Appies. Entrees. Desserts and of course wine. A bottle or two. Just really took our time. The craziest thing happened at the restaurant. I has just tweeted about our meal when someone at another table asked me if I had just tweeted?? She must have been following a Hanoi feed and saw my Tweet. It was so strange! We now follow each other on Twitter!

We wanted to check out Ho Kiem Lake at night so after dinner we headed there. Very cool when it is all lit up.

 

We then strolled through the night market. Didn’t see anything worth buying mind you but it was fun regardless! Loved all the colours that we saw as we walked though. So vibrant!

So with that, we made our way one last time through the streets of Hanoi and back to the hotel. An early morning to the airport to say goodbye to Jason and make our way via Vietnam Airlines to Hoi An.

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Halong Bay, Vietnam

18 Friday Mar 2011

Posted by Jennifer Ryan in Travel

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Halong Bay, Hanoi, junk boats, Oriental Sails, Travel, Vietnam

The train back to Hanoi from Sapa was uneventful. Slept on and off and arrived in Hanoi about 5am. We mistakenly got in a meter cab on our back back to Hotel Serenity and got gouged. What should have been a 30,000 dong cab ride cost us triple that. We got in an argument with the dude. Kind of a funny but paid him anyway. No more meter cabs for us!!

The hotel wasn’t open yet as they lock up for the night but our favourite guy who worked there opened the doors when he heard our voices and even gave us a room to chill out in for a couple hours as we were not meeting my brother until 7am.

It was so great to see Jason! He lives in the Philipines which means we don’t get to see eachother often. I was looking forward to spending some quality time with him. We had some breakfast and then waited for our Halong Bay shuttle to pick us up. We grabbed seats at the back of the bus for the 4 hour drive. What a mistake. Every bump catapolted us off our seats. Thank goodness for seat belts! Felt a little sick by the time we got to Halong Bay and I don’t normally get car sick.

Halong Bay at noon is chaos as people from the overnight boats are leaving to go back to Hanoi and people from Hanoi are arriving for their tours. We were scheduled to go on a 3 day, 2 night trip on the Oriental Sails junk boat. We paid a premium for our tour. Some boats can as cheap as $30 for 2 nights but often that is not the best choice as you will note below.

There was some confusion when we arrived. For some reason we were not allowed to get on our boat. We had heard that they were not giving out slips to leave the harbour but there was no reason given. After waiting about 30 minutes with no real answers, I found our guide and pressed him on the reason. I said that we were not understanding the delay and that he needed to come explain to everyone what the problem was. He came back over and that is when some British man started barking at our guide to tell us the truth of the accident that had happened the night before where people had died. Um what???

We didn’t get that confirmed really until later that day. Our guides continued to tell us it was about a storm coming which seemed fishy since it was clear out. So what did happen?? Apparently a junk boat had sunk the night before and 12 people drowned. How horribly tragic. I feel so badly for the loved ones of those who died. And those poor people. What they thought was going to be a lovely holiday turned into tragedy. Word was that it was an unliscenced boat. So sad.

||A bit shaken from hearing that news, we got into a day boat and started touring Halong Bay. We were told we could go out for the day and that they would give us more information later about what was going to happen next.

Halong Bay is beautiful. And so were the junk boats. Hundreds of them sailing about.

 

We cruised around for a bit and were served an amazing lunch with complimentary wine for all of our troubles. The food was incredible. So much fresh seafood!

As we approached the dock for our cave tour, Sue decided to help out.

The cave was quite cool to walk through.  It had all these crazy rock formations that were unfortunately not naturally lit. All the light make it kind of corny but we still had fun as they pointed out all the different formations.

The view from outside the caves.

We then set sail once again and this is when we really got to see Halong Bay. What an amazing experience!!! Especially to see it when the sun went down. It really was perfection and I can understand why so many people come here every year. Some pictures I took as we sailed along.

After the sun set, we came back down into the dining area and the staff explained that no overnights were being allowed on Halong Bay and that we had the option of staying in the hotel overnight and then going out on another day trip or heading back to Hanoi and getting 50% of our money back. This is where Caley and Kyle stepped in with their awesome negotiation skills! They are fellow Canadians from Toronto and they stood their ground and said that they wanted 75% of their money back which actually was right seeing as we only got 25% of the trip we had paid for. The tour agreed and we took that same option. Still no reason was given as to why no overnights were allowed. Well, they said it was about the storm still but at this point, it had been confirmed to us by other staff that the accident had indeed happened.

So we piled back into the shuttle bus after a beautiful day experience in Halong Bay and headed back to Hanoi. The tour in Halong Bay was supposed to be Susan’s birthday trip and it sucked that it didn’t go as planned. I know that it would have been such a great time but these things happen. They needed to check the saftely of all the boats before letting them stay overnight again and we completely agreed with that decision.  

 

 

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